Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

Van Zellers Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

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3 Flaschen

Zum Winzer

100
100

Diese Box enthält je 1 Flaschen 0,05l vom Van Zellers Crafted by Liberty 1860 Very Old Tawny (Alk. 20,0% Vol., Restsäure 2,07 g/l, Restzucker 136,0 g/l), Crafted by Family 1870 Very Old Tawny (Alk. 20,0% Vol., Restsäure 2,72 g/l, Restzucker 180,0 g/l) und Crafted by Poetry 1888 Very Old Tawny (Alk. 19,5% Vol., Restsäure 2,4 g/l, Restzucker 158,0 g/l).

lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

100
/100

Lobenberg: Eine einzigartige Reise in die Vergangenheit. Um diese Kollektion zu verstehen, bedarf es einer Reise in die Vergangenheit. Cristiano Van Zeller, der heutige Winzer, ist die 14te Generation des Weingutes, dass 1620 gegründet wurde. Ein Portweinexperte im besten Sinn des Wortes. Als Cristiano auf drei besonders alte Fässer stieß, wusste er sofort, dass es sich um besondere Meisterwerke handelt. Bei der Van Zellers & Co XIX The Rare Port Collection handelt es sich um drei verschiedene Colheita Portweine (Jahrgangs-Tawnys), um flüssige Geschichte. Also Tawny-Portweine die bis vor kurzem noch in ihren Fässern lagen. Die drei Flaschen stammen aus drei verschiedenen Jahrgängen. Der erste stammt aus 1860, er ist der Freiheit gewidmet, da in diesem Jahr Abraham Lincoln zum Präsidenten der USA gewählt wurde. Der Zweite stammt aus 1870 und ist der Familie gewidmet. In diesem Jahr fanden zwei Familienzweige der Van Zellers durch eine Hochzeit zusammen. Der Dritte und letzte Portwein dieser Kollektion stammt aus 1888, der jüngste also - sofern man in diesem Kontext darüber reden kann. Er ist der Poesie gewidmet. In diesem Jahr ist Fernando Pessoa, einer der einflussreichsten portugiesischen Poeten, geboren. Die Kiste an sich wird in schwarzem Klavierlack maßgefertigt. Die Flaschen mundgeblasen und statt einem Etikett werden diese mit einer kleinen Halskette ausgestattet, welche vom portugiesischen Kronjuwelen-Hersteller angefertigt wurden. Diese Sammlerbox wird durch einen handgefertigten Kristalldekanter vervollständigt. Höchstes Handwerk in allen Schritten und Details! Auf gerade einmal 75 Kisten ist diese Kollektion limitiert! *** zu Crafted by Liberty: Jahrgang 1860. Im Glas wunderbar verführerisch Mahagonifarben. Die Nase ist sagenhaft frisch. Man wird nicht nur von kandierten Orangen eingenommen, sondern auch von frischen Blutorangenzesten. Unheimlich lebendig. Wow! Die Vielschichtigkeit und Vitalität sind schon beim ersten Riechen berauschend! Ein wenig Melasse, Mokka und Purer Kakao. Dazu reihen sich, frisches Zedernholz und schwarze Nüsse. Im Mund zieht sich eine für das Alter nicht vorstellbare Säure durch den Mund! Diese wäre für einen Portwein aus dem späten 20. Jahrhundert schon beeindruckend, wenn der Portwein und auch die Reife der Aromen jedoch noch einmal 100 Jahre älter sind, ist dies noch beeindruckender! Erneut die Frische von Blutorangen, dazu frisch gerösteter Arabica. Dieses Spiel aus der aromatischen Reife, der Komplexität und der Trinkfreude ist sagenhaft! Muskatnuss, grüne Vanille und ein wenig Piment. Ein Erlebnis, das einen nur in die Knie zwingen kann! *** zu Crafted by Family: Der Family stammt aus dem Jahr 1870. Die Farbe ist recht dunkel, fast an alten Balsamico erinnernd. In der Nase getrocknete Aprikosen und Melasse. Dazu kommt ein wenig Tamarindenpaste mit ihrer dunklen Säure. Nicht so spitz wie beim Liberty, sondern viel unaufgeregter. Beeindruckend, wie unterschiedlich die beiden sind. Der Family ist dunkler in der Aromatik, doch die Lebendigkeit ist voll und ganz da! Die Vanille-Aromatik ist hier, gerade im Vergleich zum Liberty sehr viel zurückhaltender und dunkler. Also eher Tahiti-Vanille als die frischen grünen Schoten. Im Mund, gerösteter Kaffee und gebranntes Zedernholz. Unheimlich toastig. Eine zarte Frische hebt alles auf eine Ebene höher. Mit gebrannten Orangen und kandierter Grapefruit. Fordernd, komplex und beeindruckend! *** zu Crafted by Poetry: Der jüngste Portwein der drei, aus 1888. Die Nase ist total zart, die zarteste der drei. Ein bisschen Kardamom, Nelken, Kakao und Orangen. Mit beeindruckender Lebendigkeit. Das Spiel aus den hellen Gewürzen und den Orangen ist berauschend. Der Poetry ist in der Hierarchie der Aromenhelligkeit drei Portweine in der Mitte anzusiedeln. Es kommt auch eine zarte Zitrigkeit welche in der Art und Weise an Kurkuma erinnert, sehr subtil und nicht aufdringlich. Im Mund heller Kaffee und Grapefruit. Also erneut das Spiel aus Würzigkeit und Zitrus. Lebendig und doch voller Würze, voller Kraft! Kandierte Mandarine und Leder. Wunderbar lebendig. *** Alle drei Portweine entfalten eine beeindruckende Vielfalt an Aromen und Facetten. Jeder für sich ist ein einzigartiges Erlebnis, denn trotz ihrer gemeinsamen Vielschichtigkeit könnten sie in ihrem Charakter kaum unterschiedlicher sein. Die atemberaubende Frische, die alle drei Portweine durchzieht – lebendig, fesselnd und nahezu berauschend. Diese außergewöhnliche Frische verleiht ihnen eine strahlende Eleganz und hebt sie auf ein unvergleichliches Niveau.

97–99
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Suckling über: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

-- Suckling: zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: Deep mahogany with a deep amber rim. Superb complexity, with dates, prunes, incense ash, caramel, dried mushrooms and cedar. Incredible balance and harmony, with bright acidity and a sweetness and smoothness you’ll crave. Lingers for minutes. A unique tawny from 1860. The more elegant, nuanced expression of the trio of XIX release. Super delicious now. *** zu Crafted by Family 1870: Deep mahogany with tons of pecans, cigar ash, prunes and dark chocolate. Unctuous, broad, super-concentrated, complex and long. Pure syrup-like elixir with many superlatives. Very old, rare tawny from 1870. Just a bit more volatile compared to the 1888 “Poetry,” but this is already stunning. Drink now or hold. *** zu Crafted by Poetry 1888: Black mahogany color. Super intense and concentrated, with lots of cedar, sandalwood,prunes, tar, molasses, black walnuts, truffles and Mexican cocoa. Full and unctuous but extremely bright and harmonious. Lots of acidity balances the huge, almost painful, superlative concentration. A pure, seductive elixir that lasts for minutes. A unique taste of history from 1888. A great comparison with “Liberty,” which is their 1860 offering. Drink or hold.

97
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Decanter über: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

-- Decanter: zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: It reveals fine filigree scents and flavours of esteva, black pepper, lavender and cardamom, with cedar, pine needle, safron and liquorice emerging in the mouth.

96–98
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Parker über: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

-- Parker: zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: The palest of the three very old Ports is the NV Crafted by Liberty, allegedly from the 1860 vintage. It was fortified to 20% alcohol and has a pH of 3.72, 2.07 grams of volatile acidity and 132 grams of sugar. This is the least sweet of the three and also the one with less volatility, despite being the oldest. Compared with the others, this is the most elegant, fragile and less concentrated of the pack, with more cinnamon and less coconut, lighter and less sweet, the sweetness is compensated by fine tannins that leave a dry sensation. With time in the glass, it turns even more elegant and floral, nuanced and refined. This is the most fragile one and should be consumed earlier. The bottles will keep open, but this one will fade before the other two of the series. Only 75 bottles produced. *** zu Crafted by Family 1870: The darkest and possibly most extreme of these 19th-century Ports is the NV Crafted by Family, named like that because its vintage, 1870, is a relevant year for the Van Zeller family. It has 20% alcohol and very high volatility (2.71 grams!), acidity (11.14 grams!) and sugar, some 176 grams, which are higher parameters than any of the other two wines offered in the lot. It's big, concentrated and very intense. It has notes of carob beans, dark chocolate and a salty, iodine touch, hints of rusty iron and low tide, spicy, with notes of aromatic herbs and hints of very old rancio wine. With time, it developed more notes of varnished wood, ebony and mahogany and became very nutty. This is very powerful, concentrated by evaporation and pungent, full-bodied and long, developing notes of tar and a darker profile in general. It's an XXL very old Port with a fiery finish. *** zu Crafted by Poetry 1888: The youngest of the three very old Ports is the NV Crafted by Poetry, from the birth year of one of the greatest Portuguese poets, Fernando Pessoa, the 1888 vintage. Like the other three very old Ports, it was fortified to 20% alcohol, with a pH of 3.70, 2.38 grams of volatile acidity (a total of 10.04 grams of acidity) and 156 grams of sugar. It's quite dark, with a mahogany color and an amber ring, with aromas of very old and concentrated wine, coconut, spices, noble woods, dark chocolate and a touch of iodine, somehow reminiscent of a lighter version of the Moscatel Toneles Sherry from Valdespino. It has a dense and oily palate, with pungent flavors lifted by the volatility, with the concentrated acidity of an old Madeira and not that sweet. It's powerful and pungent and developed a note of brown sugar and incense, a little ashy, becoming perfumed and intoxicating, balanced in its large personality. This became more refined with time in the glass. As for the rest, there were only 75 bottles produced.

19–20
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Jancis Robinson über: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

-- Jancis Robinson: zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: Tasted from a 5-cl sample bottle. This is from 1860 (the year Abraham Lincoln was elected President, hence Liberty) but cannot be dated on the label because it was not registered as a dated wine in 1933, when this had to be done. One of three ports bought from the same farmer that Christiano Van Zeller has been following for some years. It was taken out of wood and put into stainless steel about 30 years ago. RS 136 g/l, VA 2.07 g/l, pH 3.64. This is the lightest in colour of these three 19th-century tawnies, a sort of browny ochre colour with a bit of green. Even though it is sweet, it smells somehow savoury thanks to the nutty and polished-wood aromas alongside sweeter notes of raisins and dried figs. There's also hints of dried flowers, mostly lavender, caramelised bitter orange. With time, a suggestion of curry spice. But even while trying to tease out all these complex, intervowen impressions, the overriding one is elegance, refinement and remarkable freshness. Utterly mouth-watering on the finish. *** zu Crafted by Family 1870: Tasted from a 5-cl sample bottle. This is from 1870 (the year in which two branches of the Van Zeller family got married, hence Family) but cannot be dated on the label because it was not registered as a dated wine in 1933, when this had to be done. One of three ports bought from the same farmer that Christiano Van Zeller has been following for some years. It was taken out of wood and put into stainless steel about 30 years ago. RS 180 g/l, VA 2.72 g/l, pH 3.58. Considerably darker than the Liberty (1860), more fruity and open and more sweetly raisined. Dark, bitter-sweet toffee, burnt apricot flavours. It's more viscous too and incredibly concentrated, with a long, sweet finish, lifted by the VA. Of these three very old tawnies, this is the exhibitionist. More in your face, more sweet/sour but still addictively delicious and, miraculously, balanced even if I feel the alcohol a little more on the finish. *** zu Crafted by Poetry: Tasted from a 5-cl sample bottle. This is from 1888 (the year in which the celebrated Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was born, hence Poetry) but cannot be dated on the label because it was not registered as a dated wine in 1933, when this had to be done. One of three ports bought from the same farmer that Christiano Van Zeller has been following for some years. It was taken out of wood and put into stainless steel about 30 years ago. RS 158 g/l, VA 2.4 g/l, pH 3.56. Greeny brown with some ochre at the rim. Striking note of bitter orange at first, then opening to a complex range of aromas and flavours such as mocha, bitter molasses, dried orange peel, raisins, figs and even shoe polish. But floral, too. So incredibly concentrated that it is almost, but not quite, over the top. The very long and mouth-watering finish with a touch of saltiness, keeps all that intensity in bounds.

Weingut über: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

-- Weingut: Cristiano van Zeller is the 14th generation of a family continuously working in the Douro region since 1620, producing and selling Port and Douro Wines. He has dedicated his life to Port and the Douro region. He recognizes through experience, taste, and intuition the quality behind each wine. This knowledge has been acquired together with the many family master blenders (provadores, in portuguese), Cristiano met throughout his life. Through this experience, Cristiano has tasted and crafted exquisite Port blends for over 40 years. The Van Zellers & Co XIX The Rare Port Collection are three unique Ports that Cristiano has found ageing in old cellars in the Douro and has help keep alive along many years. This is the unveiling of this long liquid history. *** zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: The first Very Very Old Tawny Porto is dating from the time Abraham Lincoln was elected the 16th President of the United States of America, in 1860. This Port wine is a tribute to Liberty. With a deep mahogany core, surrounded by a halo of olive green, this Very Old Tawny Port shows an unrivalled complexity. Opulent aromas rise from the glass, predominantly of figs and dried raisins, but also hints of flowers, caramelized orange, soft notes of curry spices and touches of tobacco leaf with an added discrete scent of the fine oak where the wine has aged for well over a century. Rich and mellow, it has, what seems to be, an everlasting and mouth-watering finish. *** zu Crafted by Family 1870: An exquisite Very Very Old Tawny Porto, dating from the time two cousins of the Van Zeller family married, in 1870, the great-great grandparents of the current generation that owns Van Zellers & Co. This Port wine celebrates Family. A dark mahogany core, with a bright rim. Fruity and open nose, with notes of dark, bitter-sweet toffee, dried figs, and a tone of caramelized citric fruits like bitter orange, and apricots. Incredibly balanced, with an intense sweetness being softly adorned by an equally bright freshness. *** zu Crafted by Poetry 1888: This is an exceptional Very Very Old Tawny Port, from the time one of the greatest Portuguese poets, Fernando Pessoa, was born. In 1888, the birth of Fernando Pessoa is a mark that trasnformed modern portuguese poetry. Throughout time, Ports gain characteristics that are more easily felt than described. Therefore, this Port wine enhances the beauty of Poetry. Only time can create such layered notes in a wine and poetry helps words describe the deep sensations it sparks. Concentrated, to quite a magical touch, this luscious wine has a pale amber halo and a greeny brown core. Notes of bitter orange, mocha, raisins, figs, and some floral touches make this expressive Very Old Tawny Port incredibly persistent, to nearly an endless finish. This wine speaks with a mystery of its own.

Mein Winzer

Van Zellers

Mit einer Geschichte, die bis ins Jahr 1620 zurückreicht, ist Van Zellers eines der ältesten Portweinhäuser überhaupt. Es ist heute noch immer ein Familienbetrieb, der aktuell bereits in 14. und 15. Generation von Douro-Ikone Cristiano und seiner Tochter Francisca Van Zeller geführt wird.