Nach den beiden Ausnahme-Jahren 2015 und 2016 und dem ordentlich bis gute 2017 ist man natürlich gespannt auf das, was uns der 2018er Jahrgang bringt. Was sagen die Winzer, Wie ist der Stand nach der malolaktischen Gärung?
Andrew Black, der renommierte britische, in Bordeaux lebende Weinpädagoge und Journalist, hat sich wie jedes Jahr umgehört, um herauszufinden, was wir nach aktuellem Stand vom Jahrgang 2018 erwarten können. Hier ein paar Eindrücke…
Andrew Black – Première Presse (No. 55)
THE 2018 VINTAGE POST-MALO
«The end of the malo-lactic fermentation is an important point in the producer’s calendar. A clearer picture of the true personality and potential of a vintage emerges. Sometimes there are surprises, and not always good ones.
However, producers that had navigated their crops well through a vine cycle of contrasts in 2018 were at harvest-time confident of the quality of this vintage. Would it be a great one though? Several said it shared some of the characteristics of the 2016 and might even be as high in quality. Others had reservations: acidities were on the low side and alcohol was high. After all, it was une année solaire, they said.
It would appear today that 2018 has surpassed most growers’ expectations. Yes, acidities are a little low and alcohol a bit high, but the impression on tasting is one of freshness, crisp fruit and balance. The bonus, say most growers, is that the wines have acquired an attractive texture and flesh, making them delicious to taste even in January and despite the wines’ abundant tannins.
Is it as good as 2016? It’s probably too soon to say. Could there now be a sunny touch to this vintage that brings an exotic hint of opulence and charm to an otherwise classic, fresh Bordeaux profile?
One thing is certain: the 2018 has got off to a flying start.»
– Andrew Black
Pierre-Olivier Clouet (Cheval Blanc):
«It was hugely satisfying to see in 2018 each plot perform at its absolute best. And that’s as pleasing as the overall quality of the vintage.»
Pauline Vauthier (Château Ausone):
«The 2016 and 2018 have a lot in common. They both have great freshness, roundness, tannins, fruit and length on the palate. The 2018 is perhaps a little less structured than the 2016.»
Alexandre Thienpont (Vieux Château Certan / Le Pin):
«I have to say that on tasting the lots the day before yesterday, I was really wowed. It’s rare for me to rave about the quality of a vintage at such an early stage, but I was knocked out.»
Zum kompletten Interview (PDF)
Marielle Cazaux (Château La Conseillante):
«I certainly expected the tannic power in the 2018, because of the data from the lab, but the opulence and flesh of the 2018 was a surprise for me.»
Frédéric Faye (Château Figeac):
«The quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding. I don’t think we’ve ever had such terrific quality in this variety.»
Vincent Priou (Château Beauregard):
«During the primeurs, the 2018 will be absolutely delicious to taste. How can it not be with its combination of 2016 freshness and aromatics and 2015 flesh and opulence?»