Alvaro Castro: Quinta da Pellada Alto 2017

Parker über: Quinta da Pellada Alto

-- Parker: The 2017 Alto Quinta da Pellada was aged for 18 months in well-used French oak (a big drop from the first I saw). It comes in at just 13% alcohol. This is one of a trio of wines this issue that owner Álvaro Castro has issued with old-style labels as an exercise in terroir. Normally, Pellada is a blend of several blocks, but it also comes out this way now—with single blocks. Unfortunately, the single block is only noted on the back label, which is rather confusing when there are two this year. The Alto is a field blend from the highest parcel (although by less than ten meters—the differences are more in the soil). Other parcels often used include the Casa (also made in 2017), the 'most exposed' corner, with a different soil type, and the '49,' the middle parcel. The principal identified grapes are Alvarelhão, Tinta Pinheira, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarela, Alfrocheiro and Baga. This will be released in December. Fresher and lighter than the Casa, this has brightness that is appealing but not as much depth. It may have every bit as much power, though, even if they both show controlled rather than astringent tannins. Just bottled about ten days earlier, this obviously needs some time to come together and become more expressive, but it certainly looks like a beauty. 94/100