Parker über:
Sammlerbox: Trésors d'Ermitage 2000/2007
-- Parker: Le Meal blanc: The amazing 2000 Ermitage Le Meal possesses huge levels of glycerin, intensity, and concentration, the likes of which I have never before tasted in a dry white Hermitage. It is hard to say where this wine is going, or how long it will take to get there, but this should be a riveting example for true connoisseurs. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060+? Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites. Bigger and richer than the '01, the sensational 2000 Ermitage le Meal Blanc knocks it out of the park with its buttered peach, wood smoke, orange liqueur, honey and hazelnut-driven bouquet. A wine that should make any Hermitage Blanc lover's knees weak, this full-bodied, voluptuous and concentrated effort has fabulous purity and a blockbuster finish. Totally hedonistic, it still has another 2-3 decades of longevity. 98/100 *** De l'Oree: While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world’s greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. Following are some top-notch picks that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Chapoutier has not achieved as great as success in Cornas as he has in the other northern Rhone appellations, although his Cornas wines get better with each vintage. There are four extraordinary single vineyard white wines, all of which are among the greatest dry white wines of the world. While all of them can be drunk young, they are meant for extended cellaring. Made from very small yields, they represent the essence of a varietal as well as a vineyard site. As the following notes demonstrate, 2006 was one of the greatest vintages for white wines at Chapoutier. The single vineyard selection parcellaire red wines range in production from 500 to nearly 1,000 cases. 2007 is a very good vintage for these selections, but 2006 has an edge. It is reminiscent of 1996 because of the wines’ freshness and acid levels, but Chapoutier’s 2006s are even more concentrated than his 1996s. Chapoutier’s four 2006 cuvees of single vineyard Hermitage are exquisite. Most of the yields were between 10 and 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines are extravagantly rich. The 2006 and 2007 luxury cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape Croix des Bois and Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac were reviewed in issue #179. They are all astounding wines, especially in 2007. 94-96/100
